Choosing the right interlining material and ironing techniques to add weight to the hem of a suit

When it comes to tailoring a suit, every detail matters in ensuring it not only looks sleek but also performs well and feels comfortable.
A crucial element that can make a big difference in the overall appearance of a suit is the hem.
Adding weight to the hem of a suit jacket or pants can give the garment a crisp, polished look.
This is where interlining material and proper ironing techniques come into play.
In this article, we’ll explore how to choose the right interlining material for your suit and discover effective ironing techniques that add weight and structure to the hem.

Understanding Interlining Material

Interlining, sometimes referred to as interfacing, is a layer of material put between the outer fabric and lining of a suit to provide support, shape, and weight.
The choice of interlining material can greatly impact the drape and sharpness of the garment’s hem.

Types of Interlining Materials

1. **Woven Interlining:**
Ideal for giving a natural flow, woven interlining is made from woven fabrics, usually cotton or synthetic fibers.
It adds weight while maintaining flexibility.

2. **Non-woven Interlining:**
Created by bonding fibers together, non-woven interlining is commonly used for its affordability and ease of application.
It provides structure but has less fluidity than woven options.

3. **Fusible Interlining:**
Fusible interlining has an adhesive on one side that, when heated, bonds with the fabric.
It’s great for adding weight and stiffness but can make the fabric less breathable.

4. **Sew-in Interlining:**
Unlike fusible options, sew-in interlining is stitched into place.
It offers a more natural feel and is often preferred for high-end suits where flexibility and breathability are desired.

Choosing the Right Interlining for Suit Hems

The choice of interlining largely depends on the fabric of the suit and the desired finish.
For lighter materials like cotton or linen suits, a lightweight woven interlining may be preferred to add a subtle weight without causing stiffness.
Heavier fabrics such as wool may require a more robust interlining to maintain shape and support.

Consider Fabric Compatibility

– If the suit fabric is soft and drapey, compatible woven or non-woven interlining will prevent the hem from curling.
– For fabrics prone to shrinkage or distortion, opt for sew-in interlining to maintain fabric integrity.

Balance Weight and Flexibility

– For a structured look, fusible interlining adds significant weight and crispness, ideal for a sharp hemline.
– Sew-in options allow for movement and are excellent for lightweight suits where flexibility is crucial.

Ironing Techniques to Enhance Suit Hem Weight

Once you’ve chosen the right interlining, proper ironing techniques can further enhance the hem’s weight and appearance.

Prepare Your Ironing Station

– Set up a flat, stable ironing board to ensure an even surface.
– Use a pressing cloth to protect delicate fabrics from direct heat.
– Pre-test your settings on a scrap of the suit fabric to determine the correct temperature.

Ironing Steps for Perfect Hem Weight

1. **Set the Temperature:**
Adjust the iron based on the suit’s material.
Wool fabrics require a medium to high temperature, while synthetic blends need a lower setting.

2. **Press, Don’t Iron:**
Use pressing motions rather than sliding the iron to avoid stretching the fabric.

3. **Steam for Structure:**
Applying steam can help add weight by relaxing the fabric and allowing it to settle into the interlining.
Hold the iron just above the fabric and release steam evenly across the hem area.

4. **Use a Tailor’s Clapper:**
A tailor’s clapper helps set the pressed area by trapping heat and moisture.
After steaming, press the clapper down onto the hem to lock in the crease.

5. **Allow to Cool:**
Once pressed, allow the fabric to cool before handling to set the hem in place effectively.

Maintaining Hem Appearance Over Time

To ensure that the hem retains its shape and weight over time, proper maintenance is key.

Hang Correctly

– Use padded hangers for suit jackets to keep the seams aligned and prevent bunching.
– Hang pants from the waist or on a clip hanger to avoid creasing.

Regular Steam and Press

– Regularly steam the hem to maintain its weight and stiffness.
– Touch up with a light iron press for sharpness before wearing.

Professional Care

– For best results, occasionally take your suit to a professional dry cleaner who understands tailored garments.

Choosing the right interlining material and mastering ironing techniques are integral steps to achieving a sharp and weighty hem in your suit.
These methods not only contribute to the suit’s overall aesthetics and professional appearance but also enhance durability and comfort.
With the right techniques, your suit can make a strong statement at any formal occasion, showcasing the pride you take in wearing attire that is meticulously crafted and well-maintained.