Understanding fabric tension and sewing sequence to prevent T-shirt hem roll

Introduction

Every home seamstress or burgeoning fashion designer knows the frustration of finishing a T-shirt, only to have the hem curl up in unattractive waves.
Understanding fabric tension and mastering the sewing sequence are key to preventing this common issue.
A perfectly flat hem gives your T-shirt a professional, polished look that takes your sewing skills to the next level.
In this article, we will explore the concepts of fabric tension and sewing sequence, and how you can effectively apply them to stop your T-shirt hems from rolling.

What Causes T-Shirt Hem Roll?

Before diving into solutions, it’s crucial to understand what causes the hem to roll.
The main culprit is the fabric type.
Knitted fabrics, particularly jersey, are known for their elasticity and tendency to roll.
When the fabric is cut, this natural inclination is exacerbated, resulting in curled hems.
Additionally, improper sewing techniques and incorrect tension on your sewing machine can also contribute to hem rolls.

Understanding Fabric Tension

Fabric tension refers to the balance of forces applied to the fabric as it passes through the sewing machine.
If the tension is too high, the fabric can stretch excessively, leading to misshapen or rolled hems.
Conversely, if the tension is too low, stitches might be loose, causing bunching and uneven hems.

How to Adjust Fabric Tension

To adjust the tension, start by consulting your sewing machine manual.
Each machine has a tension dial, usually marked by numbers.
A good starting point is to set the tension to medium and adjust from there based on the fabric.
Test the stitch on a scrap piece beforehand to ensure even, flat seams.

The Importance of Sewing Sequence

Sequencing in sewing refers to the order in which you assemble and stitch your garment pieces.
A logical sequence can prevent unnecessary stretch on certain parts of your fabric, thus avoiding hem rolling.

Proper Sewing Sequence to Prevent Hem Roll

Start by stabilizing the shoulder seams, as they tend to bear the weight of the fabric.
A stable shoulder seam diminishes the pressure on the neckline and arms, spreading the weight more evenly.
Next, sew the side seams before hemming the neckline.
Finally, complete the hem of the sleeves and bottom.
This specific sequence helps in distributing tension.

Techniques to Keep T-Shirt Hems Flat

While understanding fabric tension and sewing sequence is vital, there are other techniques to ensure a flat hem.

Using a Stabilizer

A stabilizer, such as a fusible interfacing or stay tape, can be applied to the hem before sewing.
It provides support and structure to the edge of the fabric, preventing it from curling.
Cut a strip of stabilizer one inch wide and fuse it to the edge of the fabric before hemming.

Employing the Right Needle and Thread

The needle and thread can have a significant impact on the hem’s appearance.
For knit fabrics, use a ballpoint needle as it smoothly glides between fibers, reducing fabric distortion.
Opt for polyester thread, as its elasticity complements the stretch of the knit fabric, providing a strong yet flexible seam.

Utilizing a Coverstitch Machine

A coverstitch machine is specifically designed for hemming knit fabrics.
It creates a professional finish similar to ready-to-wear garments.
If a coverstitch machine is unavailable, a twin needle on a regular sewing machine can mimic this effect.

Best Practices for Sewing T-Shirts

Adopting best practices when sewing T-shirts can elevate your garment’s quality.
Ensure your fabric is pre-washed to eliminate shrinkage.
This step also softens the fabric, making it easier to work with.
Press your seams and hems as you sew.
Ironing keeps seams crisp and open, reducing tension that might worsen hem curls.

Conclusion

Achieving the perfect T-shirt hem takes practice and a comprehensive understanding of fabric behavior.
By adjusting fabric tension and following the right sewing sequence, you can significantly reduce the likelihood of hem rolls.
Incorporating additional stabilizing techniques, using the right equipment, and following sewing best practices further ensure a smooth, flat hem.
With dedication and attention to detail, you can achieve professional-quality garments right in your own home.